Boudhanath and Swayambhunath, Kathmandu, Nepal

We arrived in Kathmandu on December 13th.  This was our third visit and we feel quite at home there now – especially as we have stayed at Valley Guest House each time (although it used to be called ‘Happy Valley’).  It is such a shame Kathmandu takes such a toll on one’s health.  I suppose if you live there all the time you become accustomed to the smog.  It did seem especially bad this time.  We barely saw a glimpse of the snow-capped mountains this time and I found I could not bear to stay on the roof for any length of time because the air quality was so poor.

The day after we arrived a trip had been organised to Swayambhunath and the Monkey Temple.  We were warned not to make eye contact with the monkeys as they can be aggressive.

Visiting pilgrimage sites in Nepal always seems to involve climbing many steps.

Eventually you reach the stupa at the top - which sadly is surrounded by shops.

The gompa (temple) has several exquisite statues - here the 16th Karmarpa...

... and Padmasambhava (Guru Rinpoche).

One of the many monkeys who clamber over the statues.

Detail of decoration.

Vajra Guru mantra above the prayer wheels.

It is possible to circumambulate below the stupa where there are more statues and prayer wheels—and no shops—and we enjoyed a pleasant walk...

... along the wall and below the prayer flags.

View of the urban sprawl of Kathmandu from Swayambhunath.